SEA OF LIGHTS Are you already in the Oktoberfest spirit? The 190th Oktoberfest begins in less than two weeks. It's hard to escape the atmosphere in the city, with the smell of almonds in the air, the vibrations from the fairground rides seemingly audible beyond the Theresienwiese, and suddenly the clatter of horses' hooves echoing through the streets where traffic usually jams. Anyone landing in Munich during the 16 days can see the colourful sea of lights from the aeroplane. You could even arrive by space shuttle, because the illuminated Theresienwiese is clearly visible from space. The Ferris wheel alone is lit by 35,000 light bulbs. Tents and attractions have been electrically lit since 1886. And when the evening sky glows above Bavaria, you don't even have to be born in Munich to sigh, ‘mei, is des schee’ (oh, how beautiful). | 
